The River of a Billion Lives: Vidya Bhushan Rawat on Sacred, Polluted and the Future of the Ganga

Kolkata: Vidya Bhushan Rawat, a dedicated activist, author, and filmmaker, has spent the last three decades working with marginalized communities. His commitment has taken many forms—from conducting padyatras (foot marches) for social causes to delivering lectures, conducting interviews, and producing documentaries. Recently, he achieved a rare milestone: traversing the Ganga from its source in the Himalayas to its mouth in the Bay of Bengal. This journey, which began in September 2021, marks three years of documenting the environmental, cultural, and historical dimensions of India’s most revered river.

Rawat’s extensive work includes numerous documentaries capturing the essence of this journey, and with over 25 published books to his name, his forthcoming work on the Ganga is highly anticipated. On the very next day after completing this extraordinary Ganga yatra (journey), he spoke to eNewsroom, sharing his reflections with a calm demeanor, yet at times brimming with excitement—much like the Ganga itself. Here is an excerpt from that conversation.

eNewsroom: Why did you decide to travel along the Ganga River?

VBR: Being a native of Uttarakhand, my love for rivers and mountains comes naturally. The first time I saw the Ganga was in 1978, when I was just a ten-year-old child. I had traveled to visit a relative’s house in Muni Ki Reti, Rishikesh, and was mesmerized by the beauty of the river. The water was a stunning green, pure and serene. Sitting on the bank and watching the calm flow of the river brought me immense joy.

As I grew older and moved to Dehradun for my studies, visiting Har Ki Pauri in Haridwar became a regular activity. I also knew that in our family, as in many others, it was customary to cremate the deceased on the banks of the Ganga in Haridwar. Even after I migrated to Delhi in 1991, my connection to Uttarakhand remained strong because of my deep love for its natural beauty.

Two decades later, I saw a powerful art exhibition by Ambedkarite artist Savi Savarkar at the Lalit Kala Academy. One of the paintings, titled Debrahminising the Ganga, made a lasting impression on me. However, the real spark for my Ganga journey came after I traveled to the upper Himalayan region of Uttarakhand in 2021, shortly after the Covid-19 lockdowns. I witnessed the mountains being exploited and saw muck flowing into the river. This inspired me to create a short 10-minute video titled Ganga Tum Behti Raho, which was well-received by many of my friends.

Having undertaken several padyatras in Uttar Pradesh and Uttarakhand, I began discussing the idea of a boat journey or an exploration of the Ganga. However, logistical and financial challenges made it difficult to realize at the time. Eventually, some friends offered to support my initiative to document the Ganga and the environmental crises it faces, particularly in Uttarakhand. This support helped me begin the project in earnest.

As I delved deeper into the river’s story, I realized that merely documenting the Ganga’s tributaries in the Himalayas would not be enough. I felt compelled to continue the journey all the way to the Bay of Bengal. Although I initially thought the challenges in the Himalayan region were the toughest, I found the low-lying Gangetic plains even more difficult to navigate.

In September 2021, I began my journey with a trek to Gaumukh from Gangotri, covering not just Uttarakhand but also the Yamuna Valley, Tons, Mahakali, and other regions. I traveled through Uttar Pradesh, Jharkhand, and West Bengal, completing the journey from Gangotri to Ganga Sagar. This journey has not only been a fascinating exploration but has also deepened my understanding of people, nature, geography, and the crises faced by both the rivers and the communities living along them.

eNewsroom: How significant was your journey in the context of Indian culture, given that civilizations in India grew around the Ganga?

VBR: For Hindus, the Ganga holds immense religious and spiritual value. To most, she is Maa Ganga. In the Uttarakhand region, however, she is known as Shailputri, the daughter of the Himalayas. Unfortunately, over the last few decades, the Ganga has been reduced to a symbol for rituals, often disregarding her dignity and sanctity. For me, it was equally important to look beyond her religious aspect and understand what draws us to the Ganga. Why is she Maa Ganga for everyone? In this sense, the journey has been profoundly educational for me.

Starting from the Himalayan region, I witnessed firsthand that the area is the abode of both Shiva and Buddha. Shaivism and Buddhism flourished in these mountains, nurturing a liberal cultural value system where man-woman relationships were more open and democratic. The priesthood was not as dominant here, but as the Ganga flows down into the plains, we see the increasing ritualization of the river and the cultural dominance of Brahmanism. More rituals led to more pollution in the plains, where few seemed concerned about the health of the river.

The Ganga is not just a source of religious and cultural fulfillment; it has also been a witness to the growth of various cultures and civilizations in India. Empires and kingdoms flourished along its banks, contributing glorious chapters to Indian history. King Jai Chand of Kannauj, vilified in history textbooks by Brahmanical historians, was actually one of the greatest kings of the region. Before him, King Harsha’s empire also thrived along the Gangetic belt.

One of the most outstanding architectural works that has stood the test of time is Chunar Fort. The Ganga looks magnetic here, just before it reaches Kashi, where it becomes even more beautiful and intensifies the spiritual energy of the people, as millions come to bathe in her waters and worship Lord Shiva. The Ganga also witnessed the anti-Brahmanical and humanist values of legendary saints like Raidas and Kabir. Furthermore, one cannot overlook the importance of Sarnath, which holds immense significance for Buddhists worldwide.

Pataliputra, the capital of the great Ashoka, was located on the banks of the Ganga and its five tributaries. Although Patna city has shifted farther away, it is said that the original city lay on the banks of these five rivers. Today, Ganga, Ghaghara, Sone, and Gandak are still in close proximity to the city. Moreover, we cannot forget that Patna is also the birthplace of Guru Gobind Singh, the 10th Guru of the Sikh religion.

Another significant Buddhist center of learning along the Ganga was Vikramshila, one of the greatest universities after Nalanda. Between Bhagalpur and Sahibganj in Jharkhand, there are numerous Buddhist sites. Rajmahal, a town in Jharkhand situated along the Ganga and the Rajmahal hills, was once the capital of undivided Bengal, which included Bihar, Jharkhand, and Odisha. This designation was made by Raja Man Singh, one of Emperor Akbar’s most trusted generals, who was appointed Governor of Bengal. Today, Rajmahal is home to the beautiful Baradari and Juma Masjid, a mosque built by Raja Man Singh.

In Bengal, the Ganga’s journey is breathtaking and relatively unexplored by outsiders. The region is steeped in history, with remnants of Buddhist architecture in Gour, the pre-Mughal capital of Bengal. In Murshidabad, the capital during the Mughal period, we have the iconic Hazarduari and other stunning structures, all situated on the banks of the Bhagirathi. At Nabadwip, the birthplace of Chaitanya Mahaprabhu, the Bhagirathi meets the Jalangi River and is thereafter known as the Hooghly. At places like Bandel, Chandernagore, Hooghly, and others, we see a rich mix of Mughal, Portuguese, Dutch, French, and British architecture. The British played a significant role in developing the Hooghly river network, and many of the bridges and buildings they constructed are still in use by the administration today. The old Rajbaris and remnants of the zamindari system in Bengal tell their own tales. Interestingly, the zamindars in Bengal were not Rajputs but Brahmins, Muslims, and Kayasthas.

So, from the Himalayas to the Sundarbans, the Ganga is not just a river—it is the lifeline of India, shaping our civilization and giving us our identity. It nurtured the most fertile lands, supported fishermen and folk communities, and inspired enchanting music, like that of Bismillah Khan, created on its banks. The Ganga is our heritage, and we must not only respect and revere it but also protect it.

eNewsroom: How important is this journey for understanding climate change and environmental issues, especially considering that rivers like the Ganga, which impact billions of lives, are neither as clean nor as vast as they once were?

VBR: Yes, this is one of the most critical aspects of the journey. The rapid melting of glaciers is a tragic reality. This year, we saw many mountains without snow as early as May, which was heartbreaking. In addition, extreme weather conditions, floods, and increased forest fires are contributing heavily to disasters. As I traveled through the Gangetic plains, it was disheartening to see the lack of awareness regarding the protection of the river. From the lower parts of Haridwar, you can already see large sandy patches as the river grows narrower and narrower. Floods deposit silt and sand, which enter our fields in many places, devastating the agricultural system.

At Kannauj, a farmer told me that there’s more profit in reti (sand) than in kheti (farming), meaning they’re now more involved in sand mining than agriculture. Sand mining is rampant in Uttar Pradesh and Bihar, and it’s leading to greater environmental damage. I must be honest in my assessment: I’m witnessing the desertification of Uttar Pradesh and Bihar. Every year, the rivers—Sarda, Ghaghra, Kosi, Gandak, and Ganga—bring floods that result in widespread destruction. The water level of the Ganga is low in many places, causing it to split and widen. Summers are becoming increasingly hotter. The water quality at Kanpur, Varanasi, and Patna is extremely poor; it’s not even fit for bathing.

As the Ganga enters Bengal, it becomes larger because it’s a low-lying area, but this also means floods wreak havoc on the lives of common people, with water everywhere.

The quality of Ganga’s water is a serious concern, and it should worry not just the authorities but every citizen. All efforts must be made to ensure that no sewage flows into the river. Municipalities and village Panchayats along the Ganga and its tributaries must be empowered to penalize industries that discharge chemical waste into the river. But it’s equally important that these local bodies should also be held accountable and penalized if they fail to stop the sewage from entering the river in their jurisdictions. Religious leaders must educate devotees about the importance of not throwing waste into the river. Disposing of old clothes, waste, plastics, flowers, and other items into the Ganga must stop. Bathing in the river should be regulated, and personally, I would request devotees to refrain from it. Instead, they can worship the river by taking a sip of the water and sprinkling it. That would do a great service to the nation.

I’m always amazed by the duplicity of people who claim Ganga is Maa and yet pollute it by spitting in the river and bathing in it as if they have never taken a bath at home. Taking a dip should fulfill a spiritual need, not turn into a “watersport.” If we continue to spoil our water bodies, we will ruin our sources of clean water. Ganga’s water is considered pure, and it is our national duty to protect it, not pollute it. We must remain vigilant because if Ganga’s pollution is not addressed, it could trigger a massive civilizational and environmental crisis for India.

eNewsroom: What have you learned from this journey? Did it challenge any of your preconceived notions about rivers, particularly the Ganga?

VBR: This journey has strengthened my belief that no journey is ever truly complete. It has given me new insights and made me realize how the Ganga has witnessed the growth of countless civilizations, kingdoms, empires, and contributed to literature, art, and culture. To be honest, I had no idea how vast and complex the river’s journey was. We’re typically familiar with names like Haridwar, Kanpur, Allahabad, Varanasi, and Patna, but there is so much more. Most North Indians don’t even know that the Hooghly is part of the Ganga, and in Bengal, the name Bhagirathi carries deep cultural significance. Many people in Bengal refer to the Hooghly simply as Ganga.

I also had the misconception that the river would feel lifeless after Kanpur, but I was wrong. I didn’t realize that Bihar has some of the most beautiful places along the Ganga. Munger, Bhagalpur, and Kahalgaon are breathtakingly beautiful and should be promoted more. I had no idea that Vikramshila, one of India’s greatest ancient universities, was located on the banks of the Ganga. Another revelation was the historic town of Sahibganj in Jharkhand, which truly opened my eyes. The journey from Sahibganj to Manihari by ship was unforgettable, and I was amazed to see large cargo ships sailing on the Ganga, especially in Bihar. It was an incredible experience to take a 45-minute journey on the river with my car aboard one of these ships—it showed me just how vast the Ganga truly is.

The Ganga in Bengal is particularly complex in terms of its branches, both tidal and non-tidal, which helped me gain a deeper understanding of the region. I wasn’t aware of how intricate the river system was. For a long time, I was confused about the origin of the Hooghly, thinking it began at the Farakka Barrage. But visiting Giria in Murshidabad, where the Hooghly begins, cleared up that confusion. Along the way, I encountered so many palaces, temples, mosques, Gurudwaras, and confluences. It has truly been a lifetime experience, but I know the journey will continue. This expedition has filled me with a deep sense of gratitude and a duty to do everything I can to protect and preserve these rivers, which are not just geographical lines but also our identity and heritage.

eNewsroom: Do you believe the Ganga will lose its importance in the next 20-30 years, or will it remain central to Indian life, or possibly even gain more prominence?

VBR: The Ganga, or any river in India for that matter, can never lose its importance. If that were to happen, our civilization would collapse. We cannot even imagine life without the Ganga. Look at the fertile lands of Western Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, Jharkhand, and Bengal. Ask the fisherfolk about its significance. However, the threat remains—if pollution continues unchecked, we may be left with only sewage water, which would be catastrophic. Religious revivalism has led priests to reduce the Ganga to a mere object for rituals, without any real effort to ensure its cleanliness.

We need to understand that a cleaner Ganga will bring greater satisfaction to us all. Why do people flock to the Himalayas, Devprayag, and Rishikesh just to see the river? It’s because the Ganga there is vibrant, full of life. Its waters appear sublime—so pure and clean that one instinctively wants to drink from it without hesitation. But as the river flows into the plains, we lose that purity. In Kanpur and Varanasi, you can’t even bathe safely in the river (although people still do, unaware of the poor water quality).

It’s time to take the climate crisis seriously. The issues of the Himalayas are critical, not just for the people of Uttarakhand, Ladakh, or Himachal Pradesh, but for the entire country. The government must remain vigilant, and the state governments should also address these concerns—most importantly, with the involvement of local communities. We cannot and should not attempt any solutions without their participation, as doing so would only lead to further disaster.

eNewsroom: What are your suggestions to policymakers for the betterment of the Ganga?

VBR: In my book, I will provide specific suggestions based on my observations in each state, as there are region-specific issues. However, here are a few common points. First, hold local bodies accountable and empower them to take action against industrial units that are polluting the river. Stop the flow of drainage water into the Ganga. The Green Tribunal or municipal corporations must penalize and prosecute companies or factories that fail to act on polluting units or drainage systems that affect the river. Allocate more funds to monitoring agencies. Engage local communities and villagers in efforts to protect and preserve the Ganga.

Religious tourism needs to be regulated. The massive influx of tourists to the Himalayan region will lead to disaster, as these areas lack the infrastructure to accommodate such large numbers of people. The sanctity of places like Kedarnath and the Sundarbans must be preserved at all costs, rather than allowing religious tourism to turn into a profit-driven enterprise. From the Himalayas to the Bay of Bengal, we need to carefully plan tourism so that a heavy influx of visitors does not damage local cultures and ecosystems.